Tuesday, October 2, 2007

CABAÑAS_home to be




09.29.07
Bueno, somehow I ended up here.
I don’t remember exactly what inspired my application, or what I possibly thought I was going to be doing nearly 6 months later; but where I am, what I am living, certainly never crossed my mind. This is for several obvious reasons. I had no clue what life was like here, in Central America, in Honduras, in the departemento de Copan, in the pueblito of Cabañas, in la casa de la familia Alvarado Robles.



The PCV swearing in ceremony at the embassy was as all ceremonies must be: a few inspiring words, a few recognitions, and an oath of allegiance. The pool party as the Ambassador’s house, which followed, was as equally anti-climatic. I wore flower panties and a tee in lieu of a real bathing suit, which I had failed to bring back from the site visit. Perhaps the celebrations would’ve been more inspiring if I wasn’t so anxious and exhausted thinking about the future. The highlight was the grapefruit trees at the ambassador’s house, the first ones I’ve tasted since landing!



Traveling to and fro has taken up my days and energy as of lately. In total I have spent 4.5 days just getting to site and back. Bumping oneself back and forth between old and new, foreign and American—it’s amazing I managed to condense everything back into that same suitcase and backpack, only to explode all that stuff again in another room I will eventually call home. Now that I’m here in my site again, for good, I wonder how long it will take me to want to stay…

I said goodbye to my host family in Sta Lucia early Friday morning and took the bus to Tegucigalpa where I eventually took a Hedman Alas bus again for the most direct route to my site. The trip was terrible. The bus on the way from San Pedro to Copan Ruínes broke down twice, and so I and two other male passengers were stuck in the dark, hoping the driver would come back and the bus would somehow reach our final destination. Eventually we did arrive in Copan Ruínes just past the stroke of midnight and beyond the point of exhaustion. A man with a van was waiting for the three triste passengers to transport us to the hotel san josé, where I paid 200 limperas, my last limps, to sleep in a humid dim room with a sad fan puffing away in the corner. I would’ve cried, but I didn’t have the energy, instead I laid down upon that foreign bed without another thought of where I was, or rather, where I wasn’t. Mayor Napo’s call awoke me at 6am.



Napo sent his driver (who reminds me of a Honduran James Dean, pistol and cig hanging out, one from the mouth, the other from the pant’s back. We rode into town, music blasting, dirt flying and a strong western sun starting to blaze. I thought just how bizarre I looked here, with all my unnecessary stuff, with my pale skin, with my dumb gringa grin.



Cabañas is a sweet little town. Simple and pretty. The typical central parque is built around the oldest ceiba tree in town with a catholic church standing in the far left corner facing that tree. This particular layout is a tradition that apparently comes from the Spanish conquistadors. It is one of the more agreeable repercussions of their stay. The town’s contents are few: a river passing by, a few pulperias, the municipalidad, a handful of comedors, a billar (pool hall), a centro de computacion (internet café) and a new farmacia and clinica next to my family’s house.



The family here is beautiful. The Alvarado Robles have four children, the oldest son is 18, their only daughter is 17 who is my new sister, and the other two boys are twelve and 14. My new room actually has a place to hang up clothes, a table to do my work, and a nice and firm bed!
I felt immediately taken care of, and as independent as I once was, I realized how I had started to accept my dependence on the Honduran people, in particular, the families I have become a part of.
My new sister and brothers showed me around town as I sketched my locator map. We stopped to buy delicious Honduran-style popsicles that I could eat a million of. We sat in the parque, just licking away at our melting ice, milk, and vanilla flavored coldness and I felt pretty lucky.




Last night the family watched as I drew my map on the computer, and then they sat and watched me as I unpacked each article from my enormous suitcase, one piece at a time, I tried to put my life into some order. It feels cozy, this room, this family, and even though I do want my privacy at times, I’d rather they crowd me than ignore me in that awkward way people do. Families here I never hear fighting. I was thinking about that after I got off the phone with my querida family of El Paraiso, never do they even raise their voices. It’s a preciosa thing.



This morning we walked to see the campo and pick up the last of my stuff from Mayor Napo’s house. After lunch we walked to an aldea and ventured along side a brook until we came upon the waterfalls and water pools where people swim. The youngest boys dashed up the rocks as fluidly as the water itself, while I, Carmen and Alicia tried to keep up. The father was busy hacking away at branches with his machete to clear the path up ahead. The water was freezing, but the rush felt amazing on my muddy and roughed-up feet. Once I was in up to my pecho, there was no turning back. We returned home in our mojado (wet) clothes and then Carmen and I went for a run to another Aldea across el puente where they bring the coffee beans to be ground by the one guy who owns the machinery to do it. We ran there and back and then joined the boys in a game of fútbol, which I definitely suck at, but it’s fun trying. They kids are amazing! Born to play, is true in Honduras. We continued to play as the rain started it’s daily routine and eventually me and Carmen excused ourselves and ran into the casa to start preparing the tortillas. She taught me how to grind the corn meal into a finer dough, which we then took globs of, rounded them, and then patted into perfect soft circles, which we threw upon the wood burning stove to cook.

Thursday, September 20, 2007

SITE ANNOUNCEMENTS: COPAN




09.18.07

This is it, I’m off to Cabañas, COPAN, to work on projects in tourism, the redesign of Project Citizen materials, and a program called Educatodos, among other things...

The department of Copan is located in the western part of the country, right next to the Guatemalan border. The climate is warm, but not hot, rather fresco (as they say here.)
The best part is that I’m right next to the famous Mayan ruins so it will be beautiful and colonial-esque villages, with the same charming cobblestone streets that are here in Sta Lucia.

I also have a site mate named Sarah, who is currently serving as a health volunteer. (This way I can keep up on the Med School lingo for when I talk to all you soon-to-be doctors back home whom I love!) I met my counterpart today, the mayor of the town, and he and the tech team will be driving me and my enormous suitcases to Cabañas tomorrow. It will be so nice to stay put in one place after this last move! I will never over pack again!


All the new excitement aside, I will miss my training site of El Paraíso a great deal. My family there I truly fell in love with and I was crying like a baby as our bus pulled away and little Angel and Susanita were waving their goodbyes. They called me once I arrived back in the frio Sta. Lucia, and already their voices sounded so far away. Once in Copan, I will be 2 days travel from them. I’m one of the furthest from Tegucigalpa, 9 hours by bus to my site! ¡Pumachica!
Angel called me again tonight begging me to come back to la casa and play with him. Miriam got on the phone and I just got a soft pain in the gut, knowing I wont be talking to her after la cena anymore.

I'm anxious to meet a whole New family tomorrow, and I'm thinking, i just can't be this lucky a Third time!

Here are some websites on Copan:

http://www.copanhonduras.org/

http://www.planetware.com/copan-ruinas-tourism-vacations-hon-cop-cr.htm

Cabanas google satellite maps

Saturday, September 15, 2007

Bye Bye El Paraiso...




09.15.07
The week has been one of the busiest thus far. It’s all coming to a close—the FBT, the Mundi-D Group, the families, El Paraiso, la Yunta, el Parque, Café D’polo, casa de cultura, charlas, cernos, cenas, aspirante-ism. It has been an excellent time, leaving El Paraiso will not be tear-less. Part of me just isn’t ready to walk away from this phase, yet I’m too anxious and excited not to. People in our group I will miss. But there are no good byes now, after all, we still have 2 years of discovering Honduras ahead.


Monday was día cultural with the families en casa de Susan. Each aspirante prepared a traditional Honduran dish for la cena. In contrast to the Honduran food, our group prepared various American cultural-type activities. One group did pin the tail on the donkey; my group did the hokey-pokey; and another group did a charla on their home states. There were also family members that presented different Honduran cultural aspects, such as a traditional dance group, a poetry reading, a few skits, and instruction on how to dance la punta—a dance that originated amongst the Garifunas on the North Coast.

Tuesday we left early for los llanos for our tourism fieldtrip. During the trip we visited a finca, rode horses (some of us rode mules), we cut down sugarcane with machetes to make sugarcane juice, we learned about cows and coffee, we made fishing poles, dug for worms, and did some fishing (I caught my first fish!), did some hiking, shucked some corn, planted some plants, and eventually we got a fire to light to roast marshmallows. The trip was fun, minus sleeping on mats, all in one large room that was once a restaurant. It was freezing and the shower in the morning even colder.
I imagine that was once all Peace Corps training was about—how to be adult girl and boy scouts.

Thursday my group started construction on our bulletin board project in el parque. The current volunteer in El Paraiso designed it, and my group along with Jorge, Junior, and a few people from the community helped us put it in place. We still have the cork to glue, which we’ll finish Sunday.

Friday marked the start to the celebrations for Honduran’s Día de Indepencia. All the students in the lower grades marched in their parade through the town yesterday, and today it will be the colegio students marching in costume while performing their dances and music.
My group did our final presentations for SDP, sharing our ups and downs in integrating into the community and attempting to execute all the projects we were trying to accomplish during the past month. There were a lot of ups and downs and expectations unmet, yet overall everyone seemed to walk away from it with a positive attitude, a lesson learned, and a better understanding of a phrase that Jorge so often says: “It Happens.” (Meaning “Shit Happens.” ie: corruption, unfulfilled promises, human error.)

Wednesday, September 12, 2007

So far septiembre so good


09.12.07__bolsas, breakfast, country home.

So far septiembre so good...
We have less than one week left of Field Based Training. Less than one week until we find out where we will be spending 2 years of our lives. Cannot even imagine. At my third Tech interview today they informed me that I will be helping to illustrate the new Project Citizen Booklets for Peace Corps Honduras, which is a great project to start out with. Also, the Alcalde in my site is eager to develop tourism in the pueblo. There are also schools and other small business in my future site to work with and for. Lastly, I will not have to worry about loneliness because there is another volunteer currently serving there, which means it can’t be all that small! Just a couple of days and I’ll know for sure!



Two Saturdays ago, a group of us girls went with Brianna Bailey’s Empleada to learn how to make bolsas. The bolsa training center (aka some tia’s casa) was apparently in colonia #24 about a 30-minute walk del centro along the main carreterra heading towards Donlí. The weather that weekend was great, and so the walk was very enjoyable fieldtrip-style. Alas, the whole objective of the walk was not quit realized. The woman who was the purse maker was not there when we arrived, and so we waited and played with the freshly born kittens and rabbits until the woman arrived from church. She eventually did arrive on the scene, and showed us her blosas to a less than enthusiastic crowd. Alas, there were no materials there to actually make the purses, and so another date was set for the lessons and we went on our sweaty, merry, mosquito-bite ridden way. Nothing really lost, nothing exceptionally gained, it was really kind of nice to just walk.



That Sunday was great. My host family took me to a nearby aldea where Miriam used to teach, and so everyone there called her la Profe. The people of the aldea were really sweet and generous. We enjoyed talking, snacking on tamales with cheese and hot, sweet coffees as the kids played and little susanita charmed everyone in her cute little vistido w/floras. In the second house we visited the family owned two HUGE cernos (pigs) and their two offspring, which were the biggest pigs I have ever seen that upclose. I mean, the slaughter of those things would feed the entire aldea for a month! After we said our goodbyes and loaded up on the customary departing gifts of fruits and vegetables and plants, we took off just as the daily rain began. We stopped along the way first to offer a jálon to a fellow church member of Wiliam’s who was along the road with her kids. Then we stopped in an outside colonia right near el centro where Miriam and Wiliam bought a house that is still under construction even though it was supposed to be completed a year ago.
Wiliam said this was an example of corruption.
The dealer taking their money without delivering any final product as promised. I can’t believe there is no penalty for that kind of robbery. People seem so patient, so very forgiving. Para mi, with the way I have been raised, if I buy something, or pay for something, that something better be produced or else there would be legal action. Here there just is no such school of thought, take action…and do what?? The results just aren’t that immediate. It’s another case of “break the cycle.” Again, where does one even begin? Regardless, the house so far looks nice and airy with some great views of the surrounding mountainside. They are such a sweet couple, such a preciosa familia, I can imagine them perfectly in their completed country home. One day.



09.05.07__Felix
Huracán Felix is filling up the buckets outside my room.
The downpour will flood many parts of the country. El Paraiso will not be one of them. But there will be no classes hoy. Flooding is possible everywhere and in particular in Tegucigalpa where the drainage system is badly in need of improvement. As for my personal flood factor, the rippling roof of my dormitorio has algunos hoyos, which allow a constant dripping right above my bed…slowly and surely it will be saturated by morning.

All my fellow aspirantes were excited for the potential evacuation, but no, only a level one, and so we remained in El Paraiso, this is all. Only change, no afternoon classes. We went to the little café “la Finca” at el parque that I truly love. The motif is peasant farm girl, lots of wicker and faux moss and clay trinkets. The best part is the big thermos of dark, strong coffee that they give you. The homemade pan is 2 limps and it is sweet yet salty with hints of nutmeg and all spice, it’s strange and good and they serve it in a little basket along side the thermo. These are the places I will miss!



09.08.07__Poetic cigarros y vino de café
Jueves nosotros fuimos al Tabacalero en Paraíso para ver el operacion. It was really interesting visually. The idea of human labor as piece-meal, as people functioning as a machine in a way, as if they were just on earth to be an arm or an eye, a couple finger movements and nothing more, nothing less, oddly enough it has practical aspects. We are all just performing memorized tasks to complete a final product. It’s eerie how this week I and another aspirante Julie (who currently has Dengue) gave Business Fundamental Charlas and in one of the activities we discuss the benefits of assembly line production and one person having just one task and that’s it. I never really considered that kind of work beneficial to anyone, yet in our lecture we illustrate it’s benefits along with the benefits of having individual products based solely on one person’s invention and labor. I wonder what the mental health consequences are.


The workers in the factory did not seem sad, or look worn down. A few had vacant stares, the same kind of stare that I have had at my past office jobs, none too different. Reality is, a few of the positions in the cigar making process demand workers to stand all day, or strain their eyes, a few of them I’m sure can never get the color of tobacco leaves to leave their fingers, their skin. A few of them have cut their own skin with the blades. This is not bad work, it is not fulfilling in the soft generalized definition of what fulfilling work is. But who can say what is or isn’t_ I did not stay with the group. I just wanted to capture it all on film. The symmetry, the lighting, the repetition—all of these mathematical elements are so appealing to the human eye. I wonder if we weren’t meant to be drones? Lemmings?
The workers receive at least minimum wage and higher, vacation time, they have a health clinic in the factory to treat those who are ill, it all seems to be ok-dokay on the surface, but we did not get to interview or speak with the workers…they were all Working...So there you have it. One worker said I looked like his daughter in the states. He had clear blue eyes, so we took a photo, psuedo dad and gringa hija.
After the tabacalero, we went to an ejemplo of a micro-empresa. A woman with a short cut and nice smile, excitedly explained to us all about the various products of café beans and the wine she produces in her home. The benefits of coffee wine were pretty humorous—relieves stress and headaches, good for the blood pressure, and an energy booster! But you don’t have to sell me on anything that’s a coffee derivative. Caffeine is surely a friend of mine. We were treated to a wine tasting w/the dark liquor-like substance, add a scoop of helado and it’s pretty rico. The woman also had a café pastel that was extremely rich and equally rico.




This week was also the end of SDP, which means the end of work in the community of El Paraiso. As I said, Julie and I were to give the Business Fundamentals charla to two of the 6th grade classes on Thursday and Friday. (The classes were canceled on Wednesday because of the huracán. Julie was a trooper and did the charlas with me anyway, even with her Dengue. It was a lot of work between the two classes, but the kids seemed to enjoy themselves and learned a few pointers on how to save money and how to think out an idea to make money. It’s hard to measure what students take away from a lesson. It’s always easier when the students are actually your own and you know their personalities, strengths, and weaknesses. Here we are shooting in the dark. But that is what we are here in FBT to do, practice being volunteers. Next week, we will actually swear in and aspirante school will be out.

Saturday, September 1, 2007

High highs_Low lows



08.26.07__Señor Tigre v. Dengue Fever
It’s nice to hear señor tigre once again, growling from his favorite hiding place beneath my bed. Little Angel is finally back to his old self after contracting Dengue fever last week. Glenda said he got it from swimming in the river. Miriam said there is bastante Dengue in el Paraiso. There is high alert in the country. We had a scare on Wednesday, when he could not use his legs. I don’t think they hurt him, it was more like paralysis, and when he tried to walk, they just buckled from underneath him and he fell. Every time he got up, he fell. Just the night previously he seemed to be recovering fast, but then this…Miriam and Wiliam took him to the clinic across the street, and then to Donlí were they were able to run some tests. It seems it was just a result of the Dengue running through his little veins and not a more serious cancer that the doctors has suspected. Thanks to all, señor tigre is back on the prowl.

The past week and a half has been very busy and emotionally charged:


08.16.07__Alauca, Jacaleapa, El Paraiso.
Thursay was the first day of SDP, self defined project. We are broken into three groups, two of which travel 20 minutes out of El Paraiso a few days of the week to work in the municipalities of Alauca and Jacaleapa. This means, no more sitting and listening to lecture after lecture…even though I know it was all necessary. But still, I am so ready to be in my site and get to work! Not that I want to say goodbye to any of these people, fellow aspirantes and families alike. Everyone here I have grown to really appreciate for all they are. I had a nice heart to heart with my host mom today, with little Susan passing between our laps—She is quickly becoming a real ally that I hope to keep for a longtime. She was joking around w/her friend about having a mountain of meat in the fridge and a gringa who only wants vegetables! Yep, that’s me, bien compliqué. Or, “tough” as my father puts it. I guess dads are sometimes right.
Wiliam, my host dad and I also spoke about life in the US. He thinks it is too centered around money and the business of increasing it, possessions and such. Perhaps it is, at some point…but not everywhere. It can’t be.

08.17.07__Legal Resident Jam Session
Friday was good day, good night.
There’s a big old blister on my thumb begging to be popped. A group of us went to the small Café d’apolo by the parque. There’s live music on weekend nights, which is really just the talented owner, se llama Carlos, and his friends playing guitar + flute. Carlos, I just happened to have met at La Casa de la Cultura the day prior b/c I found his guitar in the music room and took it upon myself to try it out. Well, he heard me singing Ben’s waiting on an angel, and liked my voice...So he lent me his guitar again to play at the café. It was nice and therapeutic, just playing and singing, not that I am any good, but I like to do it anyway! The owner even joined in w/his flute while I was playing Leaving on a Jet Plane, my first jam session in Honduras—very special.

Earlier that day we made the trip to Teguc to get our official residency cards for the country and so I am officially here! Two years, here I come…
It was really nice to get to see other people from the other two groups! It’s odd, but we wont get to see each other all in one place again until we swear in for the 2 yr service. Crazy.

After the paper work was done we got to walk around the mall for an hour and a half. I got mint chocolate chip ice cream and double minutes for my cell phone. The mall was eerie, a bit over stimulating and unnecessary. The idea of shopping was tempting, but without any money to dispense and nowhere to wear potentially cute purchases, the fun of it is not so …eh fun. I also ran into my first host dad, Don Wil and he scolded me for not calling! The time just goes so fast!
I also got a letter from Trish and a very special package from Jo! Packages are way more fun than shopping malls!


08.20.07__Honduran Time + Strikes
This Monday, my SDP group stationed in El Paraiso, made good progress—setting all our dates for the charlas we need to give at the schools and the Alcaldia. There were problems with scheduling b/c of the teacher strikes going on next week. It would seem that the teachers are upset over not receiving the money promised to them by the government during the previous campaign. There is mixed opinion over the teacher strike amongst my group as well as amongst the Hondurans. The teachers may not be paid a great deal, but their employment is seen as stable and with some benefits; thus, the people are not as sympathetic to their cause. Plus, it creates a setback in the education of the children. Then again, there is no excuse for the lying and corruption that is blatantly at work in this situation, and so I tend to side with the teachers position. Hoping that at least some of them are not as upset over the lack of monetary compensation, as the corruption at work in the governmental system. Empty promise-technique gets them every time.


08.22.07__Mountain of Tamales
Un día muy divertido! Las clases de espanol were in mi casa y we cooked tamalas de pelotes y guacamol ricisimo! (See Pics!)
Brian was our fearless culinary líder and I taught the group a traditional Honduran folk song that Miriam sang for me the night prior.
We all gathered in my kitchen to shuck the corn, peel away the first layer of husk and then cut off the remainder to guard for the eventual formulation of the tamales. We cleaned the naked ears of corn before sawing away all of the corn kernels into one large plastic basin. We then all piled into a PC vehicle to bring the corn grains to a place that grinds corn—there is only One in the entire city of el paraiso, and it ain’t pretty.



Well it’s just a very dark and noisy room where the grains are poured into one end of a machine and the mush comes out the other end. The two workers then scoop the mush back into the container for transport. Thus, we returned back to my house to continue the process. Next we added some salt and a bunch of butter to the corn goop, stirred, and poured into the folded-up shells made from the saved inner husks. Once a tamale was folded, we placed them one by one into a large pot of near-boiling water to steam. Eventually our pot was overflowing with the tamales and we placed the lid on top of the pile to leave it sit for an hour. My group then prepared guacamole, which was excellent. The group managed to demolish the entire pot of green spicy delicious chunkiness in less then 5 minutes. Then everyone enjoyed the mountain of tamales we had created. A bunch of people took them home to the families, but here at the house we still have a mini mountain of solidified corn mush chilling out in the fridge.



08.24.07__Tree Love
It’s pouring in Honduras—lightening—thunder—la tormenta verdad. Hope we don’t loose la luz.
The rain always sounds more intense upon my metal roof, braced for some collapse. Here there is no stability in these situations, as in other places in the world, everything can just be washed away with the blink of an eye. One day your roof is noisy, and the next, it is silent and gone. The idea of death and going with the flow of life is just the way people roll with the punches. It is laid back, yet smiling at the happenstance. I think of the wise eyes of our fearless leader Jorge and know that he knows. Whatever it is, he just knows...

Earlier today we all piled into the big white PC vehicles and headed to Alauca, where we had a date to plant trees w/some students from the colegio. Once we reached the town, which was about 30 minutes from el Paraiso, we gathered in a large schoolroom with wooden desks covered in simple pencil graffiti etchings. Students from the colegio joined us for a discussion about the importance of planting trees and what resources and functions trees provide for the ambiente. It was interesting, the differences in the two cultures, in how we all perceived these brown and green things that grow and get cut down, again and again. There are so many varieties of trees, it made me think of my mom and her endless knowledge of plants and tree types. She would make a great volunteer, if she could get a hot water shower ever day.
After the charla we got to the real dirty work of actually planting some trees. We had to clear off two sections of ground for the planting, breaking the soil up and leveling the area. The two plots were then roped off using branches shortened and sharpened with machetes. We then cleaned and broke up the fresh topsoil that Jorge had provided. Once that was dumped, we used a wheel barrel to make two large piles, while others filled bags with dirt and dropped the large, flat seeds within. In the midst of all the exchanging of dirt it began to pour, and we all enjoyed the strong downpour turning our dirty selves into muddy messes. There was a good four inches of dirt and twigs caked into all of our shoes, and dirt deeply embedded under our nails We finished the planting pretty quickly and so cleaned up a bit and took some group shots to commemorate our tree love. It was fun working with the Hondurans and most people really enjoyed the activity. We piled back into the vans and sped off again—a bit smellier, wetter and wiser than when we had arrived.


08.25.07__Corn Festival_Donlí
So today we embarked on a mission to be merry and eat corn—the infamous corn festival at Donlí. The town is a 20 minute bus ride from El Paraiso and is larger with real super markets and a decent amount of shopping. There is even a bank where you can use an America ATM card!
I headed towards the bus stop around 10:40am and I met up with the rest of the group across from the bumping gas station, which sells mixed drinks right outside the entrance. It seems the party starts and ends at the gas station in Honduras.
The bus to Donlí was packed! Good (sweaty) times. Once at the festival we met up with other PAM volunteers and chilled out in the “gardens” for the majority of the afternoon--plenty of smiles and quality group bonding...

The sun was brutal the entire day, and while we took shelter under our colorful umbrellas, I for one did not escape the burn! There was a Rodeo, Soccer matches, a Parade, tons and tons of food stands on every corner and crammed into the various plazas and parques where hot corn treats were steaming away atop the grills. And while there was not a lack of opportunity, I managed to leave the corn festival without eating a single ounce of corn! (But believe me, i get my share of the stuff on any given day!) Perhaps I missed out because of the downpour that came out of nowhere and forced us to haul ass to the gas station to catch our ride back as soggy burnt gringos...



08.27.07_Month DEEP
We are a month deep into FBT and I know the time will continue to fly. The group dynamic is pretty good, though tends to waver depending on peoples´ health issues. I for one am now trying to stay focused on why I am here, and try to keep positive and open to everyone. I miss people though. I really do.

08.31.07_una noche mas de augosto…
Today was an emotional day. High highs, low lows. Time and reality checks. Yesterday we started preparation for the VIH/SIDA charla. We divided up into teams of three/four and went over to the colegio this morning to present. The volunteers who came to instruct us on how to deliver the information about SIDA called it a: “charla in a box,” which is basically how it sounds—all the necessary pieces provided, instructions included, it’s just a matter of putting it together. My group consisted of Jennifer, Drew, Nicole and myself. I thought we did a pretty bang up job. The first part that I was in charge of was called: “lenguage poplular—palabres de la calle,” which is a dinamica that deals with the slang people use to refer to parts of the body, or other sexual terminology. The scientific terms for the body were written on several pieces of paper that were then taped to the wall where the students were to add their “palabres de la calle” for each one. I learned a few useful terms from that dinamica. The point, was to break the ice about the language that we would be required to use throughout the course. The next dinamica I had to lead is known as¨kati flauty, and it’s as dumb as it sounds. It’s basically a song and dance that requires people to get extremely too close while doing a few slightly provocative dance moves. The kids absolutely love this one! Finally, the last dinamica I led had to do with RESPECT. The guys formed a line on one side of the room, while the girls lined up facing the boys. We then had the guys say un frase de presion en voz alta en una manera agresiva, while the girls had to give the correct repuesta mastiza. This the guys were a little better at then the girls, but with little encouragement, the girls got into it as well.
Drew led the kiddies in the condón demonstration and he did a really great job w/a sweet potato that was the perfect vegetable replica of a phallic member complete with potato juevos. The girls learned a lot during this demonstration, and when it was all said and done, and every last saggy latex was chucked into the garbage, I think everyone had gotten something out of it. At the end of the two-hour course each student received a diploma stating they had successfully completed the course.

Afterwards we had a guest speaker come share her life story as a Honduran woman living with VIH/SIDA. Her words came fast and a veces overwhelming with emotion and painful memories. She did not look sick, she looked pretty with long think hair and a soft smile and face. She was the mother of four. Three boys with her first husband who was abusive and left them, and one little girl with the husband who had given her the disease. The later husband left her and took off to the United States where he has infected other women. The speaker spoke to us of her life before the disease and after she had been diagnosed. The worst part I think was her initial fears about the malady. She did not want to infect her children, nor family and so she was afraid to touch them, share food or drinks with them, exist in the same space as them. Her children found out at school that their mother was sick, and it killed her to have to finally tell them the truth when they came home from school with the worst question possible. Her mother also could not believe her daughter could of possibly contracted such a disease, thinking that only prostitutes, or drug users could contract VIH. It was the woman’s brother who helped start her real education about the disease, and how it is and is not transmitted. There is still much uncertainty and ignorance about these facts. This woman is a true hero for this country, speaking about her story even though there is great discrimination against people who are VIH positive. There is not much you can say besides thank you as she was heading back to Tegucigalpa. There is no pity, just a profound respect and a chilling reality check of how injustice and ignorance are always to blame and are such abstract culprits, that the only thing we can do is give these charlas in hopes that some of the children will be lucky enough to defend themselves with the imparted knowledge. low lows.

Thursday, August 16, 2007

EL PARAISO : FBT



08.08.07
el Paraiso: FBT
There is a chicken and a 6 yr old boy named Angel outside my door. I have two freshly formed mosquito bites on either arm. The roosters kept me up all night. This is New Life, Parte II.

At 7:30am Dona Letvia dropped me and my gorda suitcase in front of the Laguna. Don Wil had called me earlier in the AM to say his goodbye. It was sad to say goodbye to those who had been so kind and generous to me. They were truly the perfect family for a solo gringa dropped in the middle of Honduras--so open minded, such huge hearts…It’s hard to say goodbye to that.

The group of 44 aspirantes gathered one by one in front of the Laguna. I fed the ducks some whole wheat bread, my last piece of the heavenly loaf from Samantha’s host mom. We took some group pictures. It didn’t feel like a good-bye. The Muni-D and Pam kids got into the same bus while the Youth Development group waited for their own. We drove off and waved to the waiting. The road trip was tranquilo, time for refection driving through the central mountain ranges. The sides of the highway are beautiful here—green mountains, the skinny dark pines and the soft pastel grasses crosshatched in the dull, low morning light.
Our school bus pulled up to bustling and colorful market plaza en El Paraiso around noon. From there I got my mammoth suitcase, broke from the group, and took off down the dusty road towards a sign reading el farmacia Guadalupe. I was to find a green house across from a clinic where la familia Sanchez lived. I wheeled my suite case up to the closest muchachos hanging out on the corner and they pointed me in the right direction. You think they would’ve just given me the number to the house, but here # addresses are a rarity.

Miriam Lorena Sanchez greeted me, seven month-old baby Susan in tow, and little 6 yr old Angel not far behind. The Empleada, Glenda, took the baby and bounced her softly in her lap as Miriam and Angel gave me the tour. The house is large and clean and stereotypical Honduran-style. My room is separate from the rest, as is the kitchen and el baño. In Honduras, the houses are usually situated around an open courtyard where the pila lives (the big concrete sink/tub-like water source). In the living room, there are the standard diplomas on the walls and the television constantly set to Latin soap operas.

After the tour, we all had lunch, which consisted of the plato tipico (rice, beans, tortillas) and jugo naturel (fruit juice). Angel and Susan are both adorable children and I love them already. Angel, I can tell, will be my best friend here. I’m very happy to have kids to play with and learn from. Plus, Angel really wants to learn English, and has already played his English music while showing me his notebooks de ingles. He is for sure a smarty.

The husband, Wiliam, came home for lunch as well. He is a maestro (teacher) at a tech colegio (tech school) for metalwork, woodwork, and electrician certification. Miriam is also in school to become a maestra. She attends school on Saturdays and Sundays. They are very religious people, as is the majority of the town/country. The two main faiths seem to be Catholic and Evangelical, there are no none believers. After Wiliam dashed off to a 4-day church retreat, Miriam and the kids showed me around the town. El Paraiso is much larger than Santa Lucia, much hotter, dustier, and the town itself is very flat. I sense the group will be pretty content with this set up. I know I am. Six weeks of Field Base Training (FBT)! I Can’t believe how long that seems right now—largo y lejo.

08.09.07
My fellow aspirante Cynthia left. Jorge told us after the fact. I couldn’t believe it. Of all the women, why Cynthia? Selfishly I needed her here. I think we all did. She was so inspiring, so smart and beautiful. Such a great resource, and I earnestly wanted to work with her on future projects. I felt lonely—truly solo—and it was the family that saved me. Angel is my angel. He sat with me in my room and we looked at pictures, played in Photoshop, listened to music, and watched videos of my friends, oh my friends… Children are so open, so free, so vulnerable. It is true, everything starts with them—the solutions to the right kind of development. Thus, the loneliness passed.


That night, Miriam also gave me a fan, so hopefully the mosquitoes wont be so much of a problem in the future. Now, if only the dogs and roosters will shut the #$%@@ up so I can get some much needed rest. I’ve realized that in Honduras, there is either complete silence, or complete ruido (NOISE). When you need to sleep, it’s non-ceasing ruido: a combination of television, radio, roosters’ calls, dogfights, speeding carros, and chattering chismastic neighbors.
True sleep is also the start to everything.
I dreamt that I got to say goodbye.


08.10.07
The first real day of Field Based Training (FBT) was spent making a map. This was a pretty cool activity. We broke into groups by barrios (neighborhoods) and marked down what was what and where—important landmarks, places to eat, to shop, to get food, and places to be wary of. Nicole and I were in charge of mapping out the barrio el Centro, which was a pretty easy one to do since it only consisted of the main Parque where la Casa de Cultura resided. We ventured to and fro exploring our new home. There is a lot of stuff here: Supermercados, a discoteque, a million pulparies, dentistas, bike shops, billiard rooms, bars, comedores, colegios, escualas and farmacias. The point of making a map, besides familiarizing oneself with new surroundings, is to locate potential resources for future projects. This activity is one we are supposed to replicate once in our permanent sites.

08.11.07
Saturday night was a dinner for all the host families and volunteers. It was held at a local restaurant at the Plaza. The restaurant was muy bonita and once everyone was seated with their proper families, we all filed onto the stage, family by family, to present our new “moms/dads/sisters/brothers/cousins/ect…” Some of the more verbose of the host parents took the opportunity to lecture a bit about various topics—mostly Gods influences, Honduran’s future, coffee exports, and such. There was also the somewhat persistent mentioning of past volunteers marrying with nationals. Once we were all seated a troupe of dancers performed several traditional Honduran dances, which originated during the time of the conquistadors—thus the brilliant colored dresses and red handkerchiefs, reminiscent of travels in Spain. The group was young, vibrant, and dynamic. During the final moments of the last song, they pulled a few of us out of our seats to dance (with much less grace) on stage with the group. After dancing, the dinner was served—un plato tipico: beans, rice, meat, tortillas, chismol, queso, and fried platanos.

Sunday the president of the government council came to el Paraiso, and in his honor the local high school band performed a grande bienvenido in the streets of the Plaza. It seems that this man donated all of the instruments to the town in order for them to have the very band that was beating away in the afternoon sun. A few of us from Peace Corps attended the event, and were embarrassed and honored by the three different political figures who recognized our presence and work in the country. The councilman made his shout-out in English, thanking the “beautiful American girls for coming to his country.” It just so happens, that our group is nearly 100% female; thus, only “girls” were in attendance at the event. We took it for what it was. We took pictures with the politicos and enjoyed the bands rapid drumming as the dark clouds formed over all our heads, threatening to pour on the liberal parade.
Pour it did not, not until later that evening, and so the crowd dispersed steadily and slowly and we all returned to our casas for la cena. It’s a change to be part of a family, firstly that is not your own, and secondly that eats every meal together!For me the family has been a great source of comfort and refuge. Again, the children are just amazing for lifting ones spirits. Miriam even made me a bowl of fruit salade, my first real dosage of fruit, just like My mom used to make...it was nice, really nice.

Monday, August 6, 2007

Marale con Alicia


Volunteer Site Visit: Marale, Francisco Morazan.
Voluntaria: Alicia, Hondu 9, Mundi-D.
Recounting y Reflections.

Marale, en la casa de Alicia: I’m sitting on the sofa, the Brissa fan going full blast, the door to Alicia’s large and open casa, open to the scenario of her bonito mountain pueblo life—the colors and faces, men and women, ninos and ninas that pass by her house with parasols, appear as if within the clearest picture of a television in any given living room set in the States. This is how my brain digests the visual info—as surreal, a rare unaltered beautiful, a someplace far, far away. Yet here I sit, and all I really have to do is lift myself from the sofa, walk across the doorframe, and step outside into the very same strong sun, dusty roads, azul-colored casas of the seemingly elusive picture.





This trip to Marale, I consider my first real Honduran adventure. I met Alicia in Santa Lucia at 6:30 am in front of the school for the blind where we caught the bus going to Teguc. From hospital San Felipe we hoped on another yellow school bus to the supermercado. I was in a little slice of American product paradise—purchasing a huge tub of raisins, an apple, a yogurt, 2 boxes of kashi cereal, and a Chilean win—pure bliss. After we were loaded down with our luxuries we took a taxi to the mercado where all the buses were, and to our dismay, the 9am bus to Marale was not there as it should’ve been. As it turned out, it left already. Thus we decided to take the bus to the next closest town where a health volunteer was stationed, and where we could seek her assistance/company to await for the next bus passing to Marale—since the Mercado was not the safest place to wait around for 3 hrs with bags of stuff. The bus ride was long, but Alicia and I filled up the time by sharing our pasts and her answering all my naïve, trainee-type questions.


Once we arrived in the town, we got out at a standard kind of ‘waiting place’ and the health volunteer who lived there came by to visit. While we were talking, Alicia found us a jalon with two women from her municipalidad returning home after a conference. Sometimes there is just no other way to reach your final destination once you are far from any major urban zone. The ride was the bumpiest-ass ride of my life. The road to Marale was winding and an Indian-red clay in color. It appeared as if it was freshly cut out of the ascending terra. More beautiful vistas and further and further into the mountains we went, until finally we could see the bright white catholic church of Marale and Alicia informed me, we were home.


Alicia’s house was huge and you could see the underside of the clay roof tiles, meaning there was no ceiling in order to keep the house cool in the hot Honduran sun. She had electricity and running water in the mornings and evening. She did bucket showers, cleaned her clothes in the pila, and had no internet access, but besides that, it seemed a pretty comfortable set up. And she was definitely content in her casa with few complaints at all. Yesterday, we walked through town and made house visits to all of Alicia’s friends, which after almost 1 year in site, she had a lot of! Everyone we passed she seemed to know something about.


The school were she teaches English classes on Saturdays was the first stop to pick up some charla paper for a health charla we were to give at the health center. After that we stopped by the woman who washes her clothes, who makes amazing bread, and who was currently taking care of a baby whose mother passed away during childbirth in a nearby aldea (town) She was very smiley and enjoyed my facial expression when Alicia explained to me how she had tried cow’s blood! Despues, we stopped by another home where the women were braiding hair and the three little girls and one little boy played with the three week-old puppies. They offered us refrescos of banana and naranja, which we accepted, and as Alicia informed me, was custom when any visitor came. Something must be offered and accepted, punto. Even if the people had nothing to give, they gave. We then stopped by the house where a blind man was building a cooking table for Alicia. In this house lived the most flaco hombre y perro del mundo. His ton and Alicia carried the finished table home to rest. Alicia’s friends Gabby and Marecel who are 8 and attending her English class where waiting for us when we got back with the mesa. We helped them with their homework and then took pictures of all of us in the park still under construction. When we were worn out by all the neighborhood kids, the woman who prepares the baleadas and tamales was dropping off Alicia’s order, and we hurried home to have cena. The tamales, pepino ensalada, and white wine made for the best meal I’ve had yet—the wine and conversation. After we were good and full we got out the charla paper and prepared a short lesson on how to treat burn. Once that was finished, we were exhausted and went straight to bed.




Today I took my first bucket shower, which was fine b/c Alicia heated up the agua for me, so really it was no big deal. Breakfast was cinnamon toast, oranges, pineapples, and coffee. Tan rico. After desayuno, we went to give our charla. Unfortunately, the nurses were all at a reunion the next municipio over, and so the office was closed. Que lastima. We thus preceded to the Municipal office where Alicia has designed a computer-based system to track tax records for the municipio and aldeas since there was no real system in place, and years of unpaid and unregulated taxes. If folks will pay their taxes, the municipal will eventually be able to have the citizens apply for property rights b/c currently in this municipio, as in the rest of Honduras, no one actually owns deeds to their land. No one feels the need to pay taxes on something they don’t even own! It’s an initiative recently reinforced by the current President to encourage folks to get titles for their land. After we left the municipal, we headed over to the library where Alicia had to inform the librarian that Riken (organization of a former Peace Corps volunteer that donates money for the creation of libraries in third world countries) was not building libraries in Marale’s zone currently. But, if they were persistent and kept working towards it, RIKEN may just come and build a library in Marale. We left the library and went to one of the aldeas across the river. There, a mother was keeping house and taking care of her 3 yr old hijo sick with a rare disease that no one knows the name of, nor the cure for. Entonces, Alicia has been helping this family get the medical exams he needs in order to analyze what the disease might be. The mother is part of 1 of the indigenous groups of the area, she has 4 sons and an older daughter. The family raises chickens and pigs. The young boy, David, is so soft and sick that he is moved about in a wheelbarrow by his older brother, and he cannot really speak. It was enough to make you want to never leave. Back at Alicia’s house, we ate our lunch slowly, cleaned the dishes in the pila, and just chilled out a bit, digesting the days thus far…

A few women from the municipal stopped by b/c Alicia had take photos and got them printed at Teguc. She does this occasionally b/c she is one of the only people with a digital camera in the village and so she just charges what the prints cost, and renders the service when she can. The women were very curious and full of big smiles. They asked me if I was married or if I had a novio or children. They were shocked when I told them none of the above, and then one of the woman guess that I was 17yrs old! Unbelievable! The day before another woman of the town guessed I was 20! It seems here if you do not have a husband or children you must be of this age bracket. After our visitors left, Alicia and I started watching a movie on her laptop, but we heard the children making noise outside the casa so we would go outside and play with them. Finally, we left the house to play, and the eager kids grabbed our arms and we took off down the road to the cemetery. The children took us to the tombs of their relatives most recently deceased. These were five of many. One was buried just last week, it was a woman who had contracted a rare skin disease and the people had tried to cure here by covering her raw and naked skin with leaves collected from the river. But this only made her condition worsen, and sadly she passed away not long after. The children talked openly about death, but they dare not touch the crosses, which marked the tombs. Once back in town and away from the overgrown, yet freshly serviced burial ground, we all were in a lighter mood and began to play games. We played red light/green light, we danced, ran about, played monster chase, and tornado, and wore ourselves out. The kids however would not let us slip away easily into Alicia’s house, and we had to literally pry their hands from our wrists before closing the door in order to commence cooking a vegetable curry and coconut milk soup for cena.


My last day at Alicia’s the leak of one of her outdoor faucets was finally fixed, and thus the neighbors shunning of the wasted water could be put to rest. There were men threatening to get her water turned off if the leak was not fixed. And though Alicia had told her landlord repeatedly, the leak had remained; thus, a nearby man told Alicia he would fix it if she would give him money for the part. This she did and in ten minutes he had the leaky problem good and tight. The rest of the community was making its way to church service with the visiting pastor from another town as we waited for my bus. It seems there is not one pastor in the town itself, and so one comes for Sunday service, but he does not know the community. Our friends were back to see me off, and so when the 8am bus finally showed up at 9am, I was ready for goodbyes. I was amazed at how much I was saying goodbye to. In one small mountain town with not one restaurant nor venue, other than a Sunday morning service, I felt like I had absorbed and now must close a novel. The people make their own entertainment, they sit and talk, visit and clean, smile and joke, chase and catch, nurture and feed one another and make it a point to know everything about everyone, for they are all there is, they are all they’ve got. And when there is nothing to give, they give themselves.